CARAVAGGIO 2025 Painting the vibe

The legendary genius artist's vibe never left the streets of Rome and his message lives eternally and universally. His figures are full of narratives captured forever in an instant shoot, depicting the most profound reflections about feelings of pain and pleasure. The dark and the light. Created to heal the spiral of tragedy, every masterpiece by the greatest of the greatest Michelangelo Merisi called Caravaggio seduces and frees the tormented human spirit.

I grew up with Caravaggio, his paintings his legend and his way of seeing through the darkness with the slashes of light. I have seen his works in the churches of my home town, time and time again, in Rome, where I was so fortunate to grow up and study the History of Art. Since I remember I could feel his aura in every corner of the borgos near the Vatican down to the Fori Imperiali. I was dreaming of his studio in the candlelight. Mysterious, rebellious, innovative and unique, Michelangelo Merisi called Caravaggio has been called the worst: gambler, drunk, womaniser, and murderer. Whatever you want to make of the man behind the artist, he is one of the most perfect skilled, powerful, engaging, terrific, beautiful, unique, incomparable artists of all time.

Today a new exhibition in the heart of Rome at the stunning Palazzo Barberini sees some of his masterpieces coming back to the eternal city and the Palace where they were kept once. The show presented by Le Gallerie Nazionali di Arte Antica will run until July so if you are in Rome and you are keeen on old masters, this is 'the' show to see. Described as: One of the most important and ambitious projects featuring Michelangelo Merisi in the organisers' press release is curated chronologically in different sectioned rooms.

One of the wow rooms I loved, showcases the paintings where Caravaggio uses the model Fillide Melandroni, born in 1582, enfant terrible in the Rome of the XXVII century, and talked his friend and lover (The Loves of Caravaggio, Rossella Vodret, Utet). The blend of sacred and profane, full of sentiment and life is all there, painting the saint and heroin using the beautiful Roman young woman, also known to the police and Vatican's courts. Was Michelangelo Merisi pushing the boundaries of art at a time when the obscure reactionary forces of the Contro reform and Inquisition terrorise? Amazingly yes. Magically, here to use a word that in Rome means great on a supernatural, metaphysical level, but also grounded into action and reality, Michelangelo puts at the centre of his art the act of painting, the attractive models and the gorgeousness of the human condition. A street artist by choice, courageous and extraordinary observing and feeling the vibes of the people. The women in his art are the heroines and so heroes are the defenders of justice and freedom.

I leave a few of the images to speak for themselves from the exhibition, with one of my all-time favourites painting of the show, Saint John the Baptist, shipped from Kansas City, and one of my other favourites is The Taking of Christ, not seen before in a public display (sorry you will find out if you go to the show no photos are allowed for this last). The show to go in Rome in this jubilee year, for me, besides the strangely placed lights and the large audience. I had a blast of sentiments in front of some of my best art pieces, executed exquisitely, created relevant, courageous, innovative, and standing for positive changes. Caravaggio is a vibe.

Tips:

Book in advance, and bring your own headphones (they do not give them out) for the audio guide. The lighting is no good, so try to stand at an angle of the paintings and move about to avoid the crowd. The best time to visit is lunchtime in the week or the latest hours. Romans are the best people and super friendly yet they might be noisy, loud and chaotic in how they organise things, expect a long queue. Some viewers will be on the telefonino, during the exhibition talking loudly about what to have for dinner, so be armed with zen, meditation patience (well I was one of those who learnt to be cooler in London) play your own music on the headphones.

Have a full immersion and watch Golden Globe cinematography winner 2023 Caravaggio's Shadow, by director Michele Placido. I watched it before the show, and it was really cool. (scene of violence in it; you have been warned well, it is about Caravaggio)

Read some of the best books. Lately, I read again those two: The Loves of Caravaggio, Rossella Vodret, Utet and Caravaggio the Great paintings and the Saint Luigi Of the French Church, Rizzoli.

Take your time after the show and walk via Quattro Fontane arriving at the Quirinale square for a breathtaking view of the city.

Michelangelo Merisi called also Caravaggio, from a small town in Lombardy, Caravaggio where he moved with his family and grow up (his father was an architect for the Marchese of Caravaggio) was born on September 29, 1571, in Milan. In 1592 he moved to Rome. He died in July 18, 1610 in Porto Ercole, Tuscany.

CARAVAGGIO 2025

March 7 – July 6, 2025

Gallerie Nazionali di Arte Antica - Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, Rome