Ernesto Gonzalez on the Magical Spontaneity of Polaroids

Milk Gallery
Dec 6, 2016 3:29PM

Raised in Mexico City, Ernesto's background is reflected in the energy of his photos. After a few years working as first assistant to Enrique Badulescu, and  then as a lighting director for Kelly Klein, he started a career of his own. His imagery is colorful, bright and vibrant with positive energy. He succeeds in awaking a never-ending desire from the viewer relying on a tension between natural beauty – a sense of intimacy – and fantasy.

 

Ernesto’s work has been featured in such magazines as Harper's Bazaar and Elle (Mexico), A Magazine (Italy), Io Donna (Spain) and Modzik (Paris), amongst others, while his commercial clients include Nespresso, Luxottica, NY & CO and Alexander Wang. Most recently, Ernesto has contributed to Galore, S magazine and Out of Order.

 

Milk Gallery is delighted to announce that they will be carrying Gonzalez’s images in the Milk Store. In celebration of this new collaboration, the Milk Gallery team sat down with Gonzalez to talk about Polaroids, collaboration, and his photographic process.

Ernesto Gonzalez. Photograph by Gosbinda Vizarretea & Larissa Cortes

MILK GALLERY: THANK you FOR HAVING US in your studio! DO YOU MIND STARTING FROM THE BEGINNING? YOU CAME FROM MEXICO TO NYC AND STUDIED AT ICP (INTERNATIONAL CENTER OF PHOTOGRAPHY)? WAS ICP THE PRIMARY REASON WHY YOU CAME TO NEW YORK? 

Ernesto Gonzalez: I knew about the ICP but I wasn’t set on it. I came to New York when I was twenty, and at the time photography options in Mexico were not that many. Commercial photography in Mexico was a very small and closed circle of people. It was a very small network. There weren’t that many opportunities to work as a camera assistant or as a photo assistant for still photography. Eventually, I ended up working as a teacher’s assistant at the ICP. With that, I exchanged time for credits to pay for classes and with a bartending job in Tribeca I would make all ends meet.

MG: WHEN YOU FIRST STARTED STUDYING AT ICP YOU WANTED TO BE A CINEMATOGRAPHER. IS FILM STILL SOMETHING YOU ARE INTERESTED IN PURSUING?

EG: Yes, I find moving images beautiful, and right now motion content is in such high demand. The possibilities are endless. It is an open field and I am definitely interested in directing and shooting more motion projects.

MG: After completing your studies, you ended up assisting for Enrique Badulescu. How was that?

EG: At the ICP, I met a few people involved in fashion photography, and through other people that I knew in Mexico from the photo business we ended up linking up in New York.  One of my best friends knew Enrique’s first assistant at the time so I started hanging out with them and they gave me an internship. I worked for free a few times, helped logging equipment and on set. Some time after i started working with them as a second assistant and eventually I was offered a job as a first. The job showed me how to manage things on a set. Apart from the wonders of traveling and a technical background, it taught me about the dynamics on set and how to interact with teams. I was exposed to knowing that photography is not only a personal creation, but the creation of a team. You start interacting with stylists, with hair and makeup artists, with models, and I do have to say working with Enrique was where a lot of my exposure to Polaroid happened, because he did do a lot of work with Polaroid. I also worked for Kelly Klein afterwards, who was also doing projects on Polaroid. She was also a great influence and definitely made my interest on instant film grow.

 

MG: Were they primarily test shots?

EG: Yes they were. At the time, digital technology still wasn’t in the picture so we used to have cases of Polaroid. We had film to do whatever we wanted with. We used to have Polaroid cameras around to do test shots, but aside from those we also had SX70 and other cameras to play around with. This showed me that you could create beautiful, unique images and that’s when I started getting really obsessed with Polaroid. Back in Mexico when I was a kid, I remember one time going to lunch with my parents and my dad had one of those box cameras, the white ones with the colored strip… I remember my dad taking a picture with it and thinking, “Whoa! What is this?”  But years passed and I never paid much attention to it until I started assisting. I had so much exposure to it; it became fascinating!

MG: YOUR POLAROID PHOTOS HAVE A VERY ORGANIC QUALITY TO THEM, WITH MORE TEXTURE THAN YOU SEE WITH DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY THESE DAYS. IS THAT PART OF THE AESTHETIC YOU ARE GOING FOR?

EG: Absolutely. I think that is the whole idea behind it. On principle, to me Polaroid is about having something tangible, an object, and it allows you to play with different textures. I think with digital technology photography became a little bit homogeneous. It all looks the same. Everything is about perfection and to me, that’s a bit boring to tell you the truth.


MG: GOING BACK TO YOUR POLAROIDS, THE WOMEN YOU PORTRAY HAVE AN EDGE. WHAT DO YOU LOOK FOR IN YOUR SUBJECTS? 

EG: I like strong women. It’s funny because I’ve had prior conversations where a question about sexism comes in because a lot of my work involves nudity and so on. But in the end, the persona of the woman I photograph is always very strong because I see all of this as homage to women. It’s not coming from a sexist or misogynistic perspective; it’s actually quite the opposite. It’s about women empowering their own sexuality and persona. Every time I shoot a girl, I try to have an exchange and develop a character together. I explain an idea and then we collaborate on it, similar to how a director would work with an actress, where there is an exchange.


MG: DURING THE CASTING PROCESS, HOW DO YOU DECIDE WHO YOU WANT TO SHOOT? HOW DO YOU DETERMINE IF THERE’S THAT CHEMISTRY?

EG: There’s definitely the physical aspect. I have to find models beautiful and fitting to an initial idea, but there also has to be a connection. There has to be an understanding and they have to be open. I don’t know; it’s something that you just feel. When you meet someone, and talk to them and explain what you do, you just have a feeling. It’s something that just clicks.


MG: do you ever work WITH NON-MODELS?

EG: I have. I’ve shot acquaintances and friends, it all depends on the project.

MG: In terms of the starting point for an idea, how do you begin your process?

EG: I guess the ideas just show up from time-to-time. In order for you to be shooting and showing work, you have to be constantly exchanging ideas with other artists, with other collaborators. Do research. So maybe through a movie, or another editorial that you saw from back in the day, or some other kind of reference, there’s always something that triggers those ideas. But I believe it also happens just because it happens when it happens. I don’t have an explanation for that.

 

MG: Are there any cinematographers or directors that inspire you or your work?

EG: Robby Mueller, is probably who I can refer the most because Wim Wenders’ films were so popular when I was first getting into photography. There are so many others, it’s hard to name a favorite.

MG: GOING BACK TO WHAT YOUR COMMENTS ABOUT PHOTOGRAPHY BEING A COLLABORATIVE PROCESS, CAN YOU TELL US HOW YOU DECIDE WHO GETS INVOLVED IN YOUR TEAM AND WHAT MAKES THE MAGIC HAPPEN?

EG: Who I pick in my team depends on the project. I have a lot of talented friends who are very busy, but I’m also in a period where I like to experiment with pushing rawness. A few of my latest projects I did without hair or makeup, just the model, a stylist, and myself. The stylist and I controlled the hair and the makeup, and it came out really beautiful.

MG: DO YOU HAVE A SET TEAM OF ASSISTANTS?

EG: Lately, I’ve been working on my own. Using old technologies, it’s difficult to find people who know them they way I need them to. But mostly I just like being hands-on; I like to move my lights and organize my own Polaroid film, so that also has something to do with it.

Beach Blur
Milk Gallery
Anastasia
Milk Gallery

MG: Since film is becoming a rarer medium, how do you go about finding film and cameras and all the right equipment?

EG: I’ve been obsessed with instant film for so long that by now I have an extensive collection of cameras. Film can be a bit of a concern but you can source it out. There’s markets where you can find what you need, rare film shops, the internet, there are options. But i do have a secret stash of film that I use for certain projects.

 

MG: Do you have any upcoming projects that you would like to share?

EG: Right now I’m working on a series of portraits of creative friends that I would like to show and have an exhibition with. I recently shot a show package for STATE model management (SS2017) and was super excited to receive the support  from the agency to make it all happen. I also did images for the French lingerie brand Maison Close. All of these projects were shot on instant film. Maison Close was my first time using Instax with a LOMO camera and I really liked it. There’s also a particular project I’m very excited about, a publication of my own, but unfortunately I can’t talk about it much now.

 

MG: In terms of postproduction, do you just scan the Polaroid or do you push it with colors and retouching?

EG: A little bit, yes. I don’t do cosmetic retouching, but for reproduction you do have to compensate certain things. So they’re not exactly off the scanner, but they’re as close to it as possible.

 

To purchase Ernesto Gonzalez’s work, visit the Milk Gallery store here.

Follow Ernesto Gonzalez on instagram: @ernestoge

To see more work by Ernesto Gonzalez, visit his website.

 

Milk Gallery