Asa Lockner, ‘Crown Jewels 17:4, Necklace’, 2017, The Gallery at Reinstein|Ross

In the series Crown jewels, Lockner explores metal. She allows fate to play a vital role in the look and end result. Her work often turns out like a collage in which she uses traces and pieces from previous projects. Lockner starts with traditional materials and shapes, but she stretches the boundaries of how material is perceived. How can the soft qualities of silver be brought forward, as opposed to the more traditional impulse to highlight its hardness? The bead chain, a semi-finished product, became part of the design. Design elements and materials are examined again and again. Ovals, teardrops, stones and cut-outs serve as puzzle pieces to help Lockner explore what makes a necklace balanced. Her work seeks to balance the asymmetric and distorted with the harmonious and beautiful. It requires a broad range of material samples, designs and ideas. Teardrops and V’s are recurring shapes, but there is a discrepancy between what you think you see and what you actually do see. Agates are enhanced to the same level as gemstones. Silver components are dressed in silk. Silk thread, stitched stones or holes may represent luxury. The bead chain may symbolize tiny pearls. Despite the lack of value in the material, the necklaces, like those in the series Crown jewels, possess a quality of splendour in their quest for beauty. Missing stones are all formed as though there had once been a stone that has been removed. Something has been destroyed and scraped off. The decorative effect that a piece of jewellery adds is worth as much as its content. Lockner’s necklaces make a clear reference to the classic heritage of art jewellery, to crown jewels and precious collars. However, the material has been treated with a different aesthetic both in production and in the final result.

Crown Jewels is form a series of necklaces is called "BODY ARMOR". A tightly connected family of works reflecting the artist's belief in jewelry and its capacity to empower. Body Armor was shown at the The Armory in the Royal Palace in Stockholm. A fitting venue for a collection that not only protects but strengthens it's wearer.

Inger Wastberg, Contemporary Swedish Art Jewelry (Stockholm: Arvinius + Orfeus, 2013): 130.

About Asa Lockner

b. 1973, Solna, Sweden, based in Stockholm, Sweden