Bicycles, barrels of fish, produce, squawking chickens and personal belongings were loaded on and off the Ilala Ferry at every port we stopped at. Here, a boat waits as the ferry's ladder is lowered to transport people and their goods to shore at Likoma Island, Malawi.
We spent two nights on the three-story boat, which travels the length of Lake Malawi. On the deck, we pitched a tent and slept under the stars with many others who opt for this relatively quick mode of public transport. Plunging into the clear water from 40 feet above, eating copious amounts of nsima, and waking up to swarms of insects in the distance that I mistook for storm clouds will remain sweet memories of Malawi and the ferry.